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WINE NOTES: Wine of Burgundy (Vin de Bourgogne)
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altThis month, I am pleased to introduce to you wines from one of my favourite regions, Burgundy. Wine production in Burgundy dates back to more than 2,000 years ago, with its wines served to kings and nobility from Imperial times. Whilst the culture of wine is deeply rooted in the region, the generation of Burgundy wines as we know today is very much one of the post-French Revolution and Napoleon Wars genres.

Prior to the French Revolution in 1789, many of the vineyards in Burgundy were held by the churches and bourgeoisie. By the end of the Revolution in 1791, the lands were seized and resold, resulting in fragmented ownership of the land parcels. Following the Napoleonic Wars in the mid-19th century and abolishment of primogeniture (where the eldest son would inherit all the rights to the land), those estates were further sub-divided between siblings. Since then, and as it still is today, the vineyards of Burgundy have been broken down into numerous small pockets. Consequently, one may find many wines bearing the same name, but with a vast difference in quality and price.

Within a small area, and with there being only two main grape types: Pinot Noir to make red; Chardonnay to make white; it is possible to find a very light body Burgundy Pinot Noir with a fresh strawberry flavour, and a very full body one with a deep leather aroma. Similarly, the Chardonnays within an area may be light and naturally high in acidity with a citrus flavour, or full bodied with a creamy buttery flavour.

Regardless of its range, the most significant characteristic of Burgundy wines agreed by critics is its complexity. Compared with its Bordeaux neighbour, Burgundy wines are known to be soft, elegant, and unquestionably complex. In more recent history, Burgundy wines have also been highly prized by connoisseurs, including the likes of Thomas Jefferson in the 18th century.

Wine recommendations:

William Fèvre, Chablis AOC
This 100% Chardonnay from Chablis, the northern most part of Burgundy, is crisp with a light body. As no oak is used in its production, one doesn’t need to worry about an oak or buttery taste typical of Chardonnays. With its citrus flavour, it goes great with seafood and cod appetizers.

Bouchard Père & Fils, Pouilly-Fuissè AOC
Also a 100% Chardonnay, this white is from south of Burgundy. It boasts a full body with a harmonious blend of butter, vanilla, mango, and pineapple flavours. This wine offers great value for money, and would nicely pair risottos and roasted fish.

Domaine Armand Rousseau, Gevrey-Chambertin AOC
The vineyards here are 100% devoted to Pinot Noir, with an average vine age of 40 to 45 years. There is great emphasis on low yields, in line with Rousseau's philosophy to maintain a healthy crop of old vines coupled with “Guyot simple” pruning. Harvesting of the grapes is done by hand with sorting to filter out unsatisfactory grapes before they enter the vat. This fine red wine has an intense fruity aroma with dominant raspberry notes. It goes well with Venison, or simply with pheasant and Gruyère cheese.

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By Stephen Zhang

Stephen has been with The St. Regis Tianjin since its opening in October 2011, and is one of the few experienced high-level Chinese sommeliers in China. He manages the beverage experience for guests in the hotel, and hopes to increase knowledge about wines in Tianjin city. Stephen is a contributing columnist about wine notes & recommendations for Business Tianjin readers.



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